Mini Alarm

Suitable for doors & windows, Portable anti-bag-snatching unit

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This circuit, enclosed in a small plastic box, can be placed into a bag or handbag. A small magnet is placed close to the reed switch and connected to the hand or the clothes of the person carrying the bag by means of a tiny cord. If the bag is snatched abruptly, the magnet looses its contact with the reed switch, SW1 opens, the circuit starts oscillating and the loudspeaker emits a loud alarm sound. A complementary transistor-pair is wired as a high efficiency oscillator, directly driving a small loudspeaker. Low part-count and 3V battery supply allow a very compact construction.

Parts:

R1 = 330K
R2 = 100R
C1 = 10nF-63V
C2 = 100uF-25V
Q1 = BC547
Q2 = BC327
B1 = 3V Battery or Two AA Cells in Series
SW1 = Read Switch & Small Magnet
SPKR = 8R Loudspeaker (See Notes)

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Notes:

• The loudspeaker can be any type; its dimensions are limited only by the box that will enclose it.
• An on-off switch is unnecessary because the stand-by current drawing is less than 20µA.
• Current consumption when the alarm is sounding is about 100mA.
• If the circuit is used as anti-bag-snatching, SW1 can be replaced by a 3.5mm mono Jack socket and the magnet by a 3.5mm. Mono Jack plugs having its internal leads shorted. The Jack plug will be connected to the tiny cord etc.
• Do not supply this circuit at voltages exceeding 4.5V: it will not work and Q2 could be damaged. In any case a 3V supply is the best compromise.

Two-Tone Siren Using One IC

This circuit is intended for children fun, and can be installed on bicycles, battery powered cars and motorcycles, but also on models and various games and toys. With SW1 positioned as shown in the circuit diagram, the typical dual-tone sound of Police or Fire-brigade cars is generated, by the oscillation of IC1A and IC1B gates. With SW1 set to the other position, the old siren sound increasing in frequency and then slowly decreasing is reproduced, by pushing on P1 that starts oscillation in IC1C and IC1D.

The loudspeaker, driven by Q1, should be of reasonable dimensions and well encased, in order to obtain a more realistic and louder output. Tone and period of the sound oscillations can be varied by changing the values of C1, C2, C5, C6 and/or associated resistors. No power switch is required: leave SW1 in the low position (old-type siren) and the circuit consumption will be negligible.

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One IC Two-Toness Siren Circuit Diagram

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Parts:

R1 = 470K - 1/4W Resistors
R2 = 680K - 1/4W Resistor
R3 = 470K - 1/4W Resistors
R4 = 82K - 1/4W Resistor
R5 = 330K - 1/4W Resistor
R6 = 10K - 1/4W Resistor
R7 = 33K - 1/4W Resistor
R8 = 3.3M - 1/4W Resistor

C1 = 10µF - 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C2 = 10nF - 63V Polyester Capacitors
C3 = 100nF - 63V Polyester Capacitor
C4 = 100µF - 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C5 = 10µF - 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C6 = 10nF - 63V Polyester Capacitors

D1 = 1N4148 - 75V 150mA Diodes
D2 = 1N4148 - 75V 150mA Diodes
D3 = 1N4148 - 75V 150mA Diodes

Q1 = BC337 - 45V 800mA NPN Transistor
P1 = SPST Pushbutton
B1 = 6V Battery (4 AA 1.5V Cells in series)
IC1 = 4093 - Quad 2 input Schmitt NAND Gate IC
SW1 = DPDT Switch
SPKR= 8 Ohm Loudspeaker

Mains Supply Failure Alarm

Whenever AC mains supply fails, this circuit alerts you by sounding an alarm. It also provides a backup light to help you find your way to the torch or the generator key in the dark. The circuit is powered directly by a 9V PP3/6F22 compact battery. Pressing of switch S1 provides the 9V power supply to the circuit. A red LED (LED2), in conjunction with zener diode ZD1 (6V), is used to indicate the battery power level.

Resistor R9 limits the operating current (and hence the brightness) of LED2. When the battery voltage is 9V, LED2 glows with full intensity. As the battery voltage goes below 8V, the intensity of LED2 decreases and it glows very dimly. LED2 goes off when the battery voltage goes below 7.5V. Initially, in standby state, both the LEDs are off and the buzzer does not sound. The 230V AC mains is directly fed to mains-voltage detection optocoupler IC MCT2E (IC1) via resistors R1, R2 and R3, bridge rectifier BR1 and capacitor C1.

Illumination of the LED inside optocoupler IC1 activates its internal phototransistor and clock input pin 12 of IC2 (connected to 9V via N/C contact of relay RL1) is pulled low. Note that only one monostable of dual-monostable multivibrator IC CD4538 (IC2) is used here. When mains goes off, IC2 is triggered after a short duration determined by components C1, R4 and C3. Output pin 10 of IC2 goes high to forward bias relay driver transistor T1 via resistor R7.

Relay RL1 energises to activate the piezo buzzer via its N/O contact for the time-out period of the monostable multivibrator (approximately 17 minutes). At the same time, the N/C contact removes the positive supply to resistor R4. The time-out period of the monostable multivibrator is determined by R5 and C2. Simultaneously, output pin 9 of IC2 goes low and pnp transistor T2 gets forward biased to light up the white LED (LED1).

Light provided by this back-up LED is sufficient to search the torch or generator key. During the mono time-out period, the circuit can be switched off by opening switch S1. The ‘on’ period of the monostable multivibrator may be changed by changing the value of resistor R5 or capacitor C2. If mains doesn’t resume when the ‘on’ period of the monostable lapses, the timer is retriggered after a short delay determined by resistor R4 and C3.

Simple 6-Input Alarm

This simple alarm circuit was designed for use in a combined garage and rumpus room. It can be assembled on Veroboard and uses just one IC plus a handful of cheap components. The circuit is based on a straightforward 555 timer circuit (IC1). This is wired as a monostable and sets the siren period which is adjustable up to about three minutes using potentiometer VR1. In operation, IC1's pin 2 input monitors the detector circuit for negative-going signals. When a switch is closed, a brief negative-going pulse is applied to pin 2 via a 10µF capacitor and its corresponding series diode (D2-D7). This triggers IC1 which switches its pin 3 output high and switches off relay RLY1 (ie, RLY1 is normally on).

 As a result, the piezo siren sounds for the duration of the monostable period. In addition, relay RLY2 is turned on via diode D9 and latches on via D10. This means that the strobe light (which is wired to the normally open contact) will continue to flash until the alarm is switched off (via the keyswitch). At the end of the monostable period, RLY1 turns off and this turns off the piezo siren. The circuit can then be retriggered by any further trigger inputs from the switches. A variety of detectors with normally open contacts can be used for the switches, including reed switches, pressure mats, IR detectors and glass breakage detectors. All switches must be open before the alarm is switched on.

Laser Alarm

This circuit is a laser alarm system like the one we see in various movies. It uses a laser pointer beam to secure your valuables and property. Essentially, when the beam gets interrupted by a person, animal or object, the resistance of a photodiode will increase and an alarm will be activated. The laser and the receiver can be fitted in same box, sharing a common power supply. As the receiver draws less than 10 mA on average, you’ll soon find that the laser is the most current hungry device! Mirrors are used to direct the beam in whatever setup you require. Examples of a passage and an area protected by the alarm are shown in the diagram.

In the circuit diagram we find a TL072 op-amp (IC1.A) configured as voltage comparator between the voltage reference provided by the adjustable voltage divider P1/R4 and the light-dependent voltage provided by the voltage divider consisting of photodiode D1 and fixed resistor R3. When the laser beam is interrupted, the voltage on comparator pin 2 drops below that at pin 3, causing the output to swing to (almost) the positive supply voltage and indicating an alarm condition. This signal can drive a siren, a computer or a light that hopefully will deter the intruder.

Alternatively it can be used to ‘silently’ trigger a more sophisticated alarm. Resistor R2 provides some hysteresis to prevent oscillation when the two comparator input voltages are almost equal. Capacitor C1 makes the circuit immune to short, accidental interruptions of the beam, e.g., by flying insects. If you want your circuit to have faster responses you can reduce its value to 1 µF. The operation of the circuit is illustrated by the waveform diagram, which also proves the hysteresis action that sets an upper and a lower threshold on the input voltage. You can also see the delay introduced by capacitor C1.

The circuit is simple and could be assembled on a piece of breadboard. After assembling the circuit and testing it, you should mount it in a black box that has just a small hole. You may decide to put the laser in the same box but only if you are sure there is no way the photodiode can ‘see’ the laser beam directly. The small hole should be filled with a black drinking straw so that only light from the direction of the laser beam can enter. With the appropriate setup of the box and the mirrors, the laser beam is so intense that even direct sunlight cannot affect the operation of the photodiode.

Infrared Proximity Detector Alarm

This circuit can be built from readily available low-cost components, some of which may even be hiding in your junkbox! The indicated value of 22 Ω for resistor R1 causes an average current of about 65 mA through infrared emitter D1. Because the IRED is pulsed at a duty factor of about 50% through the action of T1 and IC1, a peak current of 128 mA flows during every half cycle. This may seem a lot but in fact is well within the safe specification of the LD274. The LM567 PLL IC is configured to supply a switching frequency of about 20 kHz. When the infrared beam emitted by D1 is reflected by a nearby object, IC1, through receiver diode D2 and transistor T2, receives the recovered 20 kHz signal at its input, pin 3.

Because the ‘567 PLL is then locked, the IC output (pin 8), drops low, triggering the 555 chip in monostable mode (IC2) and so causing acoustic actuator Bz1 to sound. The monostable remains on as long as the reflected signal is being received. Because of the presence of T3, capacitor C5 is allowed to charge only when no signal is being received. In that condition, the 555 is turned off automatically after a time determined by R9-C5. Using the component values shown, this will be about 5 seconds. Obviously D1 and D2 should be mounted such that the latter can only pick up reflected infrared light.

The choice of the two infrared components used in this circuit will be uncritical but they must be ‘band’ compatible, i.e., generate (D1) and respond to (D2) the same wavelength. The operating point of the receiver input circuit is rather dependent on ambient day-light levels and the value of R4 may need to be adjusted a little to ensure a voltage of between 1.5 V and 4 V on the collector of T1 when no signal is being received. Some dc buzzers cause a lot of back-emf so it may be necessary to insert a diode in series with the output of IC1. If necessary, this diode should preferably be a Schottky type because of the inherent low voltage drop of about 0.4 V as opposed to 0.65 V for a typical small-signal silicon diode.

General-Purpose Alarm

The alarm may be used for a variety of applications, such as frost monitor, room temperature monitor, and so on. In the quiescent state, the circuit draws a current of only a few microamperes, so that, in theory at least, a 9 V dry battery (PP3, 6AM6, MN1604, 6LR61) should last for up to ten years. Such a tiny current is not possible when ICs are used, and the circuit is therefore a discrete design. Every four seconds a measuring bridge, which actuates a Schmitt trigger, is switched on for 150 ms by a clock generator. In that period of 150 ms, the resistance of an NTC thermistor, R11, is compared with that of a fixed resistor. If the former is less than the latter, the alarm is set off.

When the circuit is switched on, capacitor C1 is not charged and transistors T1–T3 are off. After switch-on, C1 is charged gradually via R1, R7, and R8, until the base voltage of T1 exceeds the threshold bias. Transistor T1 then comes on and causes T2 and T3 to conduct also. Thereupon, C1 is charged via current source T1-T2-D1, until the current from the source becomes smaller than that flowing through R3 and T3 (about 3 µA). This results in T1 switching off, so that, owing to the coupling with C1, the entire circuit is disabled. Capacitor C1 is (almost) fully charged, so that the anode potential of D1 drops well below 0 V. Only when C1 is charged again can a new cycle begin.

It is obvious that the larger part of the current is used for charging C1. Gate IC1a functions as impedance inverter and feedback stage, and regularly switches on measurement bridge R9–R12-C2-P1 briefly. The bridge is terminated in a differential amplifier, which, in spite of the tiny current (and the consequent small transconductance of the transistors) provides a large amplification and, therefore, a high sensitivity. Resistors R13 and R15 provide through a kind of hysteresis a Schmitt trigger input for the differential amplifier, which results in unambiguous and fast measurement results. Capacitor C2 compensates for the capacitive effect of long cables between sensor and circuit and so prevents false alarms.

If the sensor (R11) is built in the same enclosure as the remainder of the circuit (as, for instance, in a room temperature monitor), C2 and R13 may be omitted. In that case,C3 willabsorb any interference signals and so prevent false alarms. To prevent any residual charge in C3 causing a false alarm when the bridge is in equilibrium, the capacitor is discharged rapidly via D2 when this happens. Gates IC1c and IC1d form an oscillator to drive the buzzer (an a.c. type). Owing to the very high impedance of the clock, an epoxy resin (not pertinax) board must be used for building the alarm. For the same reason, C1 should be a type with very low leakage current. If operation of the alarm is required when the resistance of R11 is higher than that of the fixed resistor, reverse the connections of the elements of the bridge and thus effectively the inverting and non-inverting inputs of the differential amplifier.

An NTC thermistor such as R11 has a resistance at –18 °C that is about ten times as high as that at room temperature. It is, therefore, advisable, if not a must, when precise operation is required, to consult the data sheet of the device or take a number of test readings. For the present circuit, the resistance at –18 °C must be 300–400 kΩ. The value of R12 should be the same. Preset P1 provides fine adjustment of the response threshold. Note that although the prototype uses an NTC thermistor, a different kind of sensor may also be used, provided its electrical specification is known and suits the present circuit.

Electronic Code Lock

Nowadays, electronic code locks are usually based on microcontrollers. However, if you like your electronics discrete, you will enjoy the battery-operated circuit shown here. Since the circuit automatically switches off after the door has been opened and draws no current in the idle state, three alkaline batteries (mignon, AA or R6 cells) are good for around 5,000 door openings. The main advantage is that the door opener can also be powered from the battery, so it’s not necessary to run any extra cables.

 

Project  Image :

 

 

Figure 1 shows the schematic diagram of the circuit, which is split into two parts. The first part is the control panel, which consists of a 12-position keypad and two LEDs. The second part is the programming and evaluation logic, which contains only standard logic ICs. The control panel is connected to the logic board by a 16-way flat cable. The keypad circuit is laid out with separate connections to the individual switches, instead of a matrix. The code is programmed using the two pin connector strips K1 and K2.  The circuit allows any desired combination of numbers to be used for the code, up to a maximum of 9 positions. Press-ing a particular button, which in principle is random but which naturally must be specified in advance, awakens the circuit from the zero-current idle state. This Start button cannot be used in the subsequent code sequence. The Start button is programmed by connecting a wire bridge from the associated pin of K2 to pin 1 of K1.  The code sequence is programmed in a similar manner. The first numeral of the code is programmed by connect-ing the associated pin of K2 to pin 2 of K1, the connection for the second numeral is made to pin 3 of K1, the third to pin 4 and so on. Numerals that are not used in the code do not actually have to be connected. However, if the unused buttons are connected to VDD, the code lock will assume that an error has occurred if any of these buttons is pressed and will reset the circuit. Pressing the Start button switches on transistor T1, which connects the supply voltage source to the code lock. This is indicated by the yellow LED (D20).

 

Circuit diagram :

 

 

Part List :

Resistors :

R1,R2 = not fitted
R3 = 220kΩ
R4,R5 = 1MΩ
R6 = 220kΩ
R7,R9,R10,R17 = 100kΩ
R8,R12,R14 = 2MΩ2
R11 = 560Ω
R13,R15,R20 = 1kΩ5
R16 = 100kΩ
R18 = 120Ω
R19 = 10k
R21-R24 = 3Ω3
R25-R35 = 22kΩ
Capacitors :
C1,C6,C7,C8,C10 = 100nF
C2,C3,C5 = 10nF
C4 = 1µF
C9 = 330nF
C11 = 47µF 16V radial
Semiconductors :
D1-D9,D11,D13,D14,D15,D17,
D18 = 1N4148
D10,D12 = zener diode 1V2
0.4W*
D16 = 1N4001
D19 = LED, green
D20 = LED, yellow
T1 = BC327
T2,T3,T4 = BC337
T5 = BD140
IC1 = 4017
IC2,IC3 = 4069 or 40106
Miscellaneous :
JP1 = jumper
K1,K2 = 12-way pinheader or
wire links
K3,K4 = not required (ribbon
cable )
K5, K6 = 2-way PCB terminal
block, lead pitch 5mm
S1-S12 = pushbutton with
make contact
 

Since the logic ICs are now enabled, the output of IC3f will be High, so T2 also conducts and pulls the base of T1 to ground. This means that the Start button can be released without affecting the circuit. However, C11 can now slowly charge via the high resistance of R12 until the voltage at the inverter input is high enough to cause its output to go Low, which interrupts the supply voltage to the circuit and puts it back into the idle state. The valid code must therefore be entered during the time interval determined by this R–C time constant. Once the supply voltage is disconnected, C11 discharges rapidly via D18. This is important, since other-wise C11 could retain its charge for a long time. This would make the time allowed for entering the code significantly shorter the next time the lock is used.  Pressing the Start button also has other consequences. Via the Start switch, ground potential arrives at IC2d, where it causes a pulse to be generated that places counter IC1 in a defined state (Q0 = 1) prior to the entry of the first code numeral. The first code numeral can now be entered. If the correct button is pressed, the High potential from Q0 passes through the closed switch to reach IC2d–IC2a. This net-work generates a positive pulse at the instant that the but-ton is released. This pulse clocks the counter, so that the High level from Q0 moves by one position to Q1. This process repeats itself until all code numerals have been entered. 

 

  PCB Layout :

 

 

After the ninth numeral has been entered, the positive volt-age jumps to Q9, where it charges C4 (if jumper JP1 is installed). While C4 is charging, the output of IC2e goes Low for approximately two seconds, and the output of IC3d goes high for the same interval. Power transistor T5 is switched on via R19 and T4 to supply current to the door opener. At the same time, IC3a switches on the green LED (D19) to indicate that the door can be opened. T3 limits the current through the door opener to around 700 mA. Once C4 is sufficiently charged, the output of IC2e changes to High. Not only does this switch off the door opener, but the positive edge also generates a pulse in the network IC2f/IC3c that passes through D14 to reach IC1 as a reset pulse (D14, D17 D13 and R7 together form a ‘wired-or’ gate). Inverter IC3b also provides the power-up reset to the counter. The reset signal places the circuit back into its initial state. What happens if an incorrect button is pushed? In such a case a Low level is passed through in place of the High level from the counter output. This has the same consequence as the Low level from the Start button: the counter is reset.

 

Note that you can also modify the circuit to use fewer than nine numerals for the code. All that is necessary is to connect C4 via a jumper to another counter output in place of Q9 (for example, to Q4 for a four-position code). The diode at the selected output of the counter can be replaced by a wire jumper, and the ‘higher level’ diodes can also be omit-ted. The active ‘on’ time of the door opener is 2 s. If this seems to be too short, the value of R8 or C4 can be increased. However, this also increases the amount of power drawn from the battery, especially considering that the door opener is by far the biggest power glutton in the circuit. In order to integrate the circuit into an existing door opener or to use it to operate an ac door opener, you should connect a relay to K5. Before assembling the circuit using the printed circuit board shown in Figure 2, you should separate the two sections by sawing between K3 and K4. The logic board should not be fitted directly behind the pushbuttons for entering the code. Instead, it is better to separate the entry pushbuttons, the LEDs and the door opener from the logic circuit board with a length of cable. Otherwise, a screw driver or a bit of wire connected between the emitter and collector of T5 is all that is needed to outfox the code lock and open the door.

 

Fitting the components to the circuit board should not be difficult. The ICs can be mounted in sockets. The author used 4049 inverter ICs, but in the Elektor Electronics lab prototype we used 4069’s, which are functionally compatible but not pin-compatible, and we also tried a 40106, which has Schmitt-trigger inputs. With a 4069, normal 1N4148 diodes can be used for D10 and D12. The best solution is to use the relatively noise-immune 40106. However, it is then necessary to use Zener diodes for D10 and D12, due to the higher threshold voltage. A 3.3-V type is ideal with an operating voltage of 15 V. There is one thing you should not overlook: with low-voltage zener diodes, the band on the package marks the anode instead of the cathode, as you would normally expect. At least, this is true in most cases, but not always.

 

Powerful Security Siren

This circuit was requested by several correspondents. Its purpose was to obtain more power than the siren circuit already available on this website (One-IC two-tones Siren) and to avoid the use of ICs. A complementary transistor pair (Q2 & Q3) is wired as a high efficiency oscillator, directly driving the loudspeaker. Q1 ensures a full charge of C2 when power is applied to the circuit. Pressing on P1, C2 gradually discharges through R8: the circuit starts oscillating at a low frequency that increases slowly until a high steady tone is reached and kept indefinitely. When P1 is released, the output tone frequency decreases slowly as C2 is charged to the battery positive voltage through R6 and the Base-Emitter junction of Q2. When C2 is fully charged the circuit stops oscillating, reaching a stand-by status.

Powerful Security Siren Circuit diagram:

 

Parts:

P1 = SPST Pushbutton Operating Switch
R1 = 1K
R2 = 10K
R3 = 1K
R4 = 220R
R5 = 10K
R6 = 220K
R7 = 22K
R8 = 100K
C1 = 22uF-25V
C2 = 22uF-25V
C3 = 10nF-63V
C4 = 47uF-25V
Q1 = BC557
Q2 = BC557
Q3 = BC337
B1 = 12V Battery
SW1 = SPST Toggle or Slide Main Switch
SPKR = 8 Ohms Loudspeaker

  Notes:

• A good sized loudspeaker will ensure a better and powerful output tone.
• As stand-by current drawing is zero, SW1 can be omitted and B1 wired directly to the circuit.
• Maximum current drawing at full output is about 200mA.

 

Motorcycle Alarm No.8

Notes:
Sw1 is a single trigger switch that makes and breaks the connection between R1 and ground. You can use a "tilt" switch that will open and close when say the steering is moved - or when the bike is lifted off its side stand. But it should be possible to improvise some sort of simple pendulum device that would be more responsive to other types of movement - and so offer improved protection.

The circuit is designed to use an electronic Siren drawing less than about 500mA. It's not usually a good idea to use the bike's own horn - because it can be easily located and disconnected. However - if you choose to use the horn - remember that the alarm relay is too small to carry the necessary current. Connect the coil of a suitably rated relay to the "Siren" output - and use its contacts to sound the horn.

The circuit board and switches must be protected from the elements. Dampness or condensation will cause malfunction. Connect a 1-amp in-line fuse AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE to your power source. This is VERY IMPORTANT. The fuse is there to protect the wiring - not the alarm. Exactly how the alarm is fitted will depend on the make of your particular machine - so I'm unable to provide any further help or advice in this regard.

The components are all drawn lying flat on the board - but those connected between close or adjacent tracks are mounted standing upright. The links are bare copper wire on the component side.

Motorcycle Alarm No.7

Notes:
Instead of using a key-switch you can use a hidden switch - or you could use the normally-closed contacts of a small relay. Wire the relay coil so that it's energized while the ignition is on. Then - every time you turn the ignition off - the alarm will set itself.

Sw1 is a single trigger switch that makes and breaks the connection between R1 and ground. You can use a "tilt" switch that will open and close when say the steering is moved - or when the bike is lifted off its side stand. But it should be possible to improvise some sort of simple pendulum device that would be more responsive to other types of movement - and so offer improved protection.

The circuit is designed to use an electronic Siren drawing less than about 500mA. It's not usually a good idea to use the bike's own Horn - because it can be easily located and disconnected. However - if you choose to use the Horn - remember that the alarm's relay is too small to carry the necessary current. Connect the coil of a suitably rated relay to the "Siren" output - and use its contacts to sound the Horn.

The circuit board and switches must be protected from the elements. Dampness or condensation will cause malfunction. Connect a 1-amp in-line fuse AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE to your power source. This is VERY IMPORTANT. The fuse is there to protect the wiring - not the alarm. Exactly how the alarm is fitted will depend on the make of your particular machine - so I'm unable to provide any further help or advice in this regard.

6 Zone Alarm

Circuit Notes:
All zones Z1 to Z6 use normally closed alarm contacts. Zone 1 is a timed zone which must be used as the entry and exit point of the building. Zones 2 to 6 are immediate zones, which will trigger the alarm with no delay. Some RF immunity is provided for long wiring runs by the input capacitors, C1 - C6. The key switch, S1 acts as the Set and Reset/Unset switch. For best security this should be the metal type switch with a key.

All IC's except IC6 are CMOS types with buffered outputs, these are denoted by the suffix "B". Unbuffered CMOS IC's have a suffix starting "U" and will not work in this circuit. IC6 is a 5 Volt regulator providing power to the main CMOS IC's, the alarm power supply can be any suitable 12 to 15V power supply.

In operation the DPDT switch S2 is set to the "run" position. When keyswitch S1 is turned reset, this is the unset (off) state of the alarm. In this condition capacitor C8 will discharge via D9, R1 and Z1 and capacitor C7 will have discharged via D8, R17 and S1. Relay RLY1 will not be energized and all CMOS IC's and the display will have no power.

When S1 is turned to set all CMOS IC's receive 5 Volt power. C11 will briefly charge and apply a low input signal to one half of U7A a CMOS4001B, a dual input OR gate. The output of U5A will also be low (make sure all windows and doors zones 2 to 5 are shut) and the output of U7A is high. The output of U7A is then inverted by U7B and fed back via R18 to U7A's input keeping the circuit latched. The output of U7B is low and so Q1 and the relay RLY1 is off and no alarm will sound.

Also when S1 is set, C8 slowly charges via R13. C8 and R13 form the exit timer and allow time to vacate the building. The delay is approximately 1.1 x the value of C8 (in uF) or about 52 seconds with values shown. During the exit delay zone switch Z1 can be opened and closed without triggering the alarm. After the exit time ends, C8 will be charged and one half of the 2 input AND gate, U4A will now be high. Any opening of zones 2 through 6 will cause the alarm to trigger and relay RLY1 will energize. If an intruder attempts a break-in via zone 4 for example, the output of U1D will change state from low to high. When this happens, the high signal is forwarded by U2C a triple input OR gate CMOS4075 and is sent to input C on the CMOS4511 BCD to Decimal display driver. The binary code for four is 100 and input C is high, A abd B are low, and the LED display will illuminate digit 4. The high output from U2C is also forwarded to U5A, again a triple input OR gate. The output of U5A is now sent via S2 to the input of U7A. U7A and U7B form a bistable latch, the change in state causing the output of U7A to change to low, the output of U7B to become high and fed back via R18 to the input of U7A again. The circuit is now latched in the high state. The high output of U7B does two things. First it switches on Q1 and relay RLY1 sounding the alarm. Secondly the high output at U7B is applied to the blanking input of the CMOS4511B via S2 and also to the enable latching pin. The display will now continually show the number of the triggered zone, even if the zone switch is opened or closed again. It is a similar process for any of the other immediate zones.

As this alarm uses 6 zones, the CMOS 4511 BCD to decimal decoder must count to 6 which is 110 in binary. Therefore only inputs A,B and C are required, D is simply tied to ground. The pinout for the CMOS 4511 is shown below.

CMOS 4511

If the building is entered via Zone 1 then the entry timer starts. The output of U1A (in the set condition ) is low. Entry via Z1 triggers U1A to become momentarily high as the door is opened. U4A then produces a high output, as does U4B. The high signal is now passed via D7 to the input of U1A latching it in the high state. C7 then charges via R15. This is the entry delay and is approximately 1.1 x 0.47 x C7 or about 24 seconds with values shown. Once charged U4C will become high, trigger the alarm and cause the LED display to be latched, as per the preceding paragraph.

Switch S2 is normally used in the run position. However in the test position, this allows a useful "walkthrough" test of the alarm. In the test position the input of U7A is always low and will not trigger the alarm, also the blanking input is also high, meaning that the 7 segment display is always illuminated. With all zones closed, open any zone, the corresponding number will be shown on the display. Note that if two zones are opened the diplay will not necessarily indicate the correct zone, this is not a fault, just the way the circuit is designed. When in run mode, the first zone to trigger the alarm is "caught" and latched and will be displayed until the alarm is reset.

One Time Only Alarm

Notes:
The alarm may be operated by a simple hidden two-way switch - such as a light switch. If you want more security - you can use a key switch - or one of a number of code operated Keypad Switches.

Before you set the alarm - make sure that the building is secure - that ALL of the Green LEDs are lighting - and that the Yellow LED is off. If the Yellow LED is lighting - there's a fault in one of the zones - and THE ALARM WILL NOT SET.

Depending on the setting of R9 - when you move Sw1 to the "set" position - you have up to about a minute to leave the building. When you return and open the door - the Buzzer will sound. Depending on the setting of R8 - you have up to about a minute to switch the alarm off. If you fail to do so - the Siren will sound.

Depending on the setting of R14 - the Siren will sound for up to about 20-minutes. Then it will switch off - and remain off. Of course - you can stop the noise at any time by moving Sw1 to the "off" position.

When you return - if the Buzzer does not sound and the Yellow LED is lighting - then there's been an activation while you were away.

Multi-Zone Transistor Alarm

Notes:
It's easy to use. Make sure that the green LED is lighting - then switch the alarm on using Sw1. You have about 30 seconds to leave the building. When you return and open the door - the Buzzer will sound. You have about 30 seconds to switch off the alarm. If you fail to do so - the Siren will sound.

While at least one of the trigger switches remains open - the Siren will continue to sound. However - if the trigger circuits have been restored - the alarm will reset itself after about 10 minutes. Of course - you can turn the Siren off at any time by switching off the alarm.

Because of manufacturing tolerances - the precise length of any delay depends on the characteristics of the actual components you've used in your circuit. But - to some degree - by altering the values of R2, R7 & R9 you can adjust the Exit, Entry and Reset times to suit your requirements. Increasing the values increases the time - and vice-versa.

If you don't want the "Instant" zone - leave out D7, D8, D9, R12, R13, C8 and the Green LED.

MotorCycle Alarms 5 & 6

Circuit Notes
Any number of normally-open switches may be used. Fit the mercury switches so that they close when the steering is moved or when the bike is lifted off its side-stand or pushed forward off its centre-stand. Use micro-switches to protect removable panels and the lids of panniers etc. When one of the trigger-switches is closed - the relay will energize and the siren will sound.

You can choose what happens next. If you build the circuit as shown, the siren will continue to sound until you turn it off - or until the battery is exhausted. But, if you leave out D3 - the siren will stop sounding immediately the trigger-switch is re-opened.

While you're within earshot of your machine - the former configuration is best. You can always turn off the alarm yourself. But if you are going to be away from your bike for any length of time - and you don't want to cause a nuisance - then the latter configuration is probably more suitable. If you include a SPST switch in series with D3 - you can select the behaviour that best suits the circumstances at any given time.

Simple Motorcycle Alarm

Notes:
Any number of normally-open switches may be used. Fit the mercury switches so that they close when the steering is moved or when the bike is lifted off its side-stand or pushed forward off its centre-stand. Use micro-switches to protect removable panels and the lids of panniers etc. While at least one switch remains closed - the siren will sound. About one minute after all of the switches have been opened again - the alarm will reset. How long it takes to switch off depends on the characteristics of the actual parts you've used. You can adjust the time to suit your requirements by changing the value of C1 and/or R3.

Motorcycle Alarm No. 3

Notes
Any number of normally-open switches may be used. Fit "tilt" switches that close when the steering is moved or when the bike is lifted off its side-stand or pushed forward off its centre-stand. Use micro-switches to protect removable panels and the lids of panniers etc.

Once activated, the rate at which the siren switches on and off is controlled by R9 & C5. For example - increasing the value of C5 will slow it down, while reducing the value of R9 will make it faster.

While at least one switch remains closed the siren will sound. About thirty seconds after all of the switches have been opened, the alarm will reset. How long it takes to switch off depends on the characteristics of the actual components used. You can adjust the time to suit your requirements by changing the value of R6 and/or C4.

5 Digit Alarm Keypad

 

Circuit Notes
This switch will suit the Modular Burglar Alarm circuit. However, it also has other applications. The Keypad must be the kind with a common terminal and a separate connection for each key. On a 12-key pad, look for 13 terminals. The matrix type with 7 terminals will NOT do. Choose the five keys you want as your code, and connect them to 'A, B, C, D & E'. Wire the common to R1 and all the remaining keys to 'F'. Because your choice can include the non-numeric symbols, almost 100 000 different codes are available. The Alarm is set using the first four of your five chosen keys. When 'A, B, C & D' are pressed in the right order and within the time set by C1 and R2 (about 10 seconds), current through R11 switches Q6 on. The relay energizes, and then holds itself on by providing base current for Q6 through R12. The 12-volt output switches from the "off " to the "set " terminal, and the LED lights. To switch the Alarm off again it is necessary to press A, B, C, D & E in the right order. The IC is a quad 2-input AND gate, a Cmos 4081. These gates only produce a high output when both inputs are high. Pressing 'A' takes pin 1 high for a period of time set by C1 and R2. This 'enables' gate 1, so that when 'B' is pressed, the output at pin 3 will go high. This output does two jobs. It locks itself high using R3 and it enables gate 2 by taking pin 5 high. The remaining gates operate in the same way, each locking itself on through a resistor and enabling its successor. If the correct code is entered within the time allowed, pin 10 will switch Q5 on and so connect the base of Q6 to ground. This causes Q6 to switch off and the relay to drop out. Any keys not wired to 'A, B, C, D or E ' are connected to the base of Q4 by R9. Whenever one of these 'wrong' keys is pressed, Q4 takes pin 1 low. This removes the 'enable' from gate 1, and the code entry process fails. If C, D or E is pressed out of sequence, Q1, Q2 or Q3 will also take pin 1 low, with the same result. You can change the code by altering the keypad connections. If you make a mistake entering the code, just start again. If you need a more secure code you can use a bigger keypad with more 'wrong' keys wired to 'F'. A 16-key pad gives over half a million different codes. All components are shown lying flat on the board; but some are actually mounted upright. The links are bare copper wires on the component side. Two of the links must be fitted before the IC.

Radio Wave Alarm

Circuit Notes
The circuit transmits on Medium Wave (this is the small problem with the police). IC1a, together with a sensor (try a 20cm x 20cm sheet of tin foil) oscillates at just over 1MHz. This is modulated by an audio frequency (a continuous beep) produced by IC1b. When a hand or a foot approaches the sensor, the frequency of the transmitter (IC1a) drops appreciably.

Suppose now that the circuit transmits at 1MHz. Suppose also that your radio is tuned to a frequency just below this. The 1MHz transmission will therefore not be heard by the radio. But bring a hand or a foot near to the sensor, and the transmitter's frequency will drop, and a beep will be heard from the radio.

Attach the antenna to a multiplug adapter that is plugged into the mains, and you will find that the Medium Wave transmission radiates from every wire in your house. Now place a suitably tuned Medium Wave radio near some wires or a plug point in your house, and an early-warning system is set up.

Instead of using the sheet of tin foil as the sensor, you could use a doorknob, or burglar bars. Or you could use a pushbutton and series resistor (wired in series with the 33K resistor - the pushbutton would short it out) to decrease the frequency of IC1a, so activating the system by means of a pushbutton switch. In this case, the radio would be tuned to a frequency just below that of the transmitter.

Water Activated Alarm

Circuit Notes
The circuit uses a 555 timer wired as an astable oscillator and powered by the emitter current of the BC109C. Under dry conditions, the transistor will have no bias current and be fully off. As the probes get wet, a small current flows between base and emitter and the transistor switches on. A larger current flows in the collector circuit enabling the 555 osillator to sound.

An On/Off switch is provided and remember to use a non-reactive metal for the probe contacts. Gold or silver plated contacts from an old relay may be used, however a cheap alternative is to wire alternate copper strips from a piece of veroboard. These will eventually oxidize over but as very little current is flowing in the base circuit, the higher impedance caused by oxidization is not important. No base resistor is necessary as the transistor is in emitter follower, current limit being the impedance at the emitter (the oscillator circuit).