The idea for this project may have come to me in a flash of inspiration,
and its a very simple way to check if a fuse has blown without removing
it from its holder. The simplicity of this circuit uses just two
components, but with just one resistor and an LED this circuit gives
visual indication of when a fuse has blown. LED1 is normally off, being
"short circuited " by the fuse, F1. Should the inevitable "big-bang"
happen in your workshop then LED1 will illuminate and led you know all
about it! Please note that the LED will only illuminate under fault
conditions, i.e. with a short circuit or shunt on the load. In this case
the current is reduced to a safe level by R1
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Tampilkan postingan dengan label Indicator. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label Indicator. Tampilkan semua postingan
Selasa, 18 Desember 2012
LED Bar Off Indicator
The simple indicator presented in this article may be combined, in
principle, with any circuit that contains an LED bar display driven by a
Type LM3914 IC. It ensures that an LED will light when all LEDs driven
by the LM3914 are out. This prevents one drawing the erroneous
conclusion that, since all the LEDs are out, the circuit is switched
off. The circuit then continues to draw current, which, especially if it
is battery powered, costs unnecessary money, apart from other
considerations. The LED in the monitor draws a current of only 1 mA.
When the LEDs forming the bar, D1–D10 are all out, there is no potential
difference across R3, so that T1 is off and T2 is on.
This results in T3, in conjunction with R5 and the internal reference
voltage of IC1, to form a current source that causes a constant current
to flow through D11 so that the diode lights. When on of diodes D1–D10
lights, a potential difference ensues across R3, which causes T1 to come
on. This results in T2 being switched off so that there is no collector
current through T3. Consequently, there is no feedback at the emitter
of T3, so that the current through R2 rises appreciably. The current
through R2 determines the current through the LEDs in the bar.
Therefore, when T3 is enabled, the current through R2, and thus the
total current in the circuit, is reduced considerably.
Mains/Fuse Failure Indicator
The indicator shows when the mains is present at its output by a
continuous glow of a neon bulb, La1, and when the fuse is blown by
flashing of the neon bulb. When the fuse is intact, capacitor C2 acts as
the series resistance for the neon bulb, so that this glows
continuously. When the fuse has blow, the mains voltage across diode D1
is applied as a pulsating direct voltage to network R1-C1. Capacitor C1
charges slowly and when the voltage across it reaches 80–100 V, the neon
bulb comes on. Capacitor C1 is then discharged slowly via diode D2 and
the bulb.
When the voltage across it has dropped sufficiently, the bulb goes out,
whereupon C1 slowly charges again. This process repeats itself, so
that, provided the values of R1 and C1 are right, the bulb flashes
visibly. The potential across capacitor C2 is a ramp with a peak value
of 30 V (which is, of course, applied to the load). Note that the neon
bulb used for this purpose must not be a type that has a built-in
series resistor.
Blinker Indicator
This circuit represents a somewhat unusual blinker indicator for use in a
car or model. The running-light display progresses toward the left or
the right depending on which directional signal is activated. That’s
pretty cool if you’re fond of light-show effects. The circuit consists
of two counters (IC2 and IC3), which are reset to zero via C4 or C7
respectively whenever a blinker lamp (La) illuminates. The running-light
display thus runs through once and then stops, since the highest
counter output is connected to the Enable input.
When the lamp goes out, a new reset pulse is issued to the relevant counter by NAND gate IC1.A or IC1.B respectively, and the counter counts all the way up again. The progression rate of the display can be adjusted to the right speed using P1. Only one LED is on at a time (except for the hazard blinker). This allows the brightness to be easily adjusted using R12. Incidentally, the circuit can also be modified by replacing the normal diodes with LEDs, with all of the cathodes connected to ground via R12.
Low Battery Indicator II
This circuit indicates the remaining battery life bAy varying the duty
cycle and flash rate of an LED as the battery voltage decreases. In
fact, the circuit actually indicates five battery conditions: (1) a
steady glow assures indicates that the battery is healthy; (2) a 2Hz
flicker (briefly off) indicates that the battery is starting to show
age; (3) a 5Hz 50% duty-cycle flash is a warning that you should have a
spare battery on hand; (4) a brief flicker on at a 2Hz rate indicates
the battery's last gasp; and (5) when the LED is continuously off, it's
time to replace the battery. IC1 is wired as an oscillator/comparator,
with a nominal fixed voltage reference of about 1.5V on its pin 2
(inverting) input (actually, it varies between about 1.7V and 1.4V
depending on the hysteresis provided via R6).
This reference voltage is derived from a voltage divider consisting of
resistors R4 & R5, which are connected across the 5V rail derived
from regulator REG1, and feedback resistor R6. Similarly, IC1's pin 3
input (non-inverting) is connected to a voltage divider consisting of R1
& R2 which are across the 9V battery. Using the component values
shown, the circuit will switch LED1 from being continuously on to flash
mode when the 9V battery drops to about 6.5V. Subsequently, LED1 is
continuously off for battery voltages below 5.5V.
Naturally, you can tweak the resistor values in the divider network for different voltage thresholds as desired. In operation, the circuit oscillates only when the sampled battery voltage (ie, the voltage on pin 3) is between the upper and lower voltage thresholds set on pin 2. Capacitor C3 provides the timing. Above and below these limits, IC1 simply functions as a comparator and holds LED1 continuously on or off. Finally, to precisely set the "dead-battery" threshold, make R4 adjustable to offset the variations in regulator tolerance.
Naturally, you can tweak the resistor values in the divider network for different voltage thresholds as desired. In operation, the circuit oscillates only when the sampled battery voltage (ie, the voltage on pin 3) is between the upper and lower voltage thresholds set on pin 2. Capacitor C3 provides the timing. Above and below these limits, IC1 simply functions as a comparator and holds LED1 continuously on or off. Finally, to precisely set the "dead-battery" threshold, make R4 adjustable to offset the variations in regulator tolerance.
Low Battery Indicator I
Here is the circuit diagram of low battery indicator from silicon chip
electronics. This simple circuit lights LED1 when the battery voltage
drops below the setting set by trimpot VR1. In effect, VR1 and
associated resistors bias Q1 on which holds Q2 and the LED off. When the
voltage drops below the set value, Q1 turns off, allowing Q2 to turn on
and light the LED. The circuit is suitable for nominal battery voltages
up to 12V.
Maximum Minimum Voltage Indicator
This circuit indicates which of three voltages in the range from about
about -4V to about +4V - at A, B and C - is the highest by lighting one
of three indicator LEDs. Alternatively, it can be wired to indicate the
lowest of three voltages or to indicate both the highest and lowest
voltages. Op amps IC1a, IC1b & IC1c are wired as comparators, while
the three indicator LEDs and their series 1kO current limiting resistors
are strung across the op amp outputs to implement the appropriate logic
functions.
For example, LED A will light only when pin 8 of IC1c is low (ie, A
greater B) and pin 7 of IC1b is high (ie, A greater C). Similarly, LED B
will light only when pin 8 of IC1c is high (ie, B greater A) and pin 1
of IC1a is low (ie, B greater C). LED C works in similar fashion if
the voltage at C is the highest. Note that if all the LEDs and their
parallel 1N4148 diodes are reversed, the circuit will indicate the
lowest of the three input voltages. And if each 1N4148 diode is replaced
by a LED, the circuit will indicate both the highest and lowest
inputs.
Earth Fault Indicator
The security of many electrical devices depends today on the
availability of an earthed mains outlet. We should remember that these
are connected to the frame or to the metal housing of the equipment and
so it routes to the protective earth (PE) connections. In this setup,
mains voltage, however small, will cause the differential circuit
breaker to trip. The circuit breaker is part of any modern electrical
installation. This type of security device may however become defective
due to common corrosion as we have seen many times on various older
household devices, as well as on construction sites.
Actually, since these devices are frequently in wet conditions, the screw and/or lug used to connect the earth wire to the device frame corrodes gradually and ends up breaking or causing a faulty contact. The remedy is then worse than the problem because the user, thinking that he/she is protected by earth, does not take special precautions and risks his/her life. However, all that’s needed is an extremely simple system to automatically detect any break in the earth connection; so simple that we ask ourselves why it is not already included as part of all factory production for appliances that carry any such risk, as we have discussed above.
We propose it as a project for you to build using this schematic. The live wire (L) of the mains power supply is connected to diode D1 which ensures simple half-wave rectification which is sufficient for our use. The current which is available is limited to a very low value by resistor R2. If the appliance earth connection to which our circuit is installed is efficient, this current is directed to earth via resistor R1 and the rest of the circuit is inactive due to insufficient power. If the earth connection is disconnected, the current supplied by D1 and R2 charges up capacitor C1.
Actually, since these devices are frequently in wet conditions, the screw and/or lug used to connect the earth wire to the device frame corrodes gradually and ends up breaking or causing a faulty contact. The remedy is then worse than the problem because the user, thinking that he/she is protected by earth, does not take special precautions and risks his/her life. However, all that’s needed is an extremely simple system to automatically detect any break in the earth connection; so simple that we ask ourselves why it is not already included as part of all factory production for appliances that carry any such risk, as we have discussed above.
We propose it as a project for you to build using this schematic. The live wire (L) of the mains power supply is connected to diode D1 which ensures simple half-wave rectification which is sufficient for our use. The current which is available is limited to a very low value by resistor R2. If the appliance earth connection to which our circuit is installed is efficient, this current is directed to earth via resistor R1 and the rest of the circuit is inactive due to insufficient power. If the earth connection is disconnected, the current supplied by D1 and R2 charges up capacitor C1.
When the voltage at the terminals of the capacitor reaches about 60
volts, neon indicator light La1 is turned on and emits a flashing light
which discharges capacitor C1 at the same time. This phenomenon is
reproduced indefinitely as long as the earth connection has not been
restored, and the neon light continues to flash to attract attention in
case of danger. Building the project is not particularly difficult but,
since it is a project aimed at human safety, we must take the maximum of
precautions concerning the choice of components utilised. Therefore, C1
must have an operating voltage of at least 160 volts while R2 must be a
0.5-watt resistor, not for reasons of power dissipation, but in order
to maintain the voltage.
The neon light can be any type, possibly used, or it may be part of an indicator light to make it easier to attach to the protected appliance. In the second case, we must obviously get rid of its series resistor which would prevent proper operation here. During installation of the circuit in the appliance to be protected, we should also clearly mark Live (L) and Neutral (N) (for example, seek Live with a simple screwdriver) because inverting these two wires at this point will disable proper operation. The final point, which is self-evident considering the principle used here: the earth connection for our setup must be hooked up to the frame of the appliance to be protected at a different point than where the normal earth wire is connected.
The neon light can be any type, possibly used, or it may be part of an indicator light to make it easier to attach to the protected appliance. In the second case, we must obviously get rid of its series resistor which would prevent proper operation here. During installation of the circuit in the appliance to be protected, we should also clearly mark Live (L) and Neutral (N) (for example, seek Live with a simple screwdriver) because inverting these two wires at this point will disable proper operation. The final point, which is self-evident considering the principle used here: the earth connection for our setup must be hooked up to the frame of the appliance to be protected at a different point than where the normal earth wire is connected.
Blown Fuse Indicator
This blown fuse indicator will work with a wide range of DC supply
voltages from 5V to 50V. It illuminates LED1 when the fuse blows. With
the fuse intact, Q1 is held off and there is no bias current available
for the base of Q2. So the LED is off. When the fuse blows, a small
current flows via the base-emitter junctions of Darlington transistor
Q1, through its base resistor R1 and then via the load. Typically this
current will be around 20μA and this turns on Q1 which provides base
current to Q2 which then turns on to illuminate the LED.
The emitter current of Q2 is limited by Q3 which turns when the current
reaches about 10mA, to shunt base current away from Q2. The three
resistor values not given in the circuit are dependent on the supply
voltage and can be calculated from the following simple equations:
- R1(kΩ) = V(DC)/0.02 = 560kΩ for 12V DC
- R2(kΩ) = V(DC)/2 = 5.6kΩ for 12V DC
- R3(Ω) = V(DC)/0.02 = 560Ω for 12V DC
Battery Indicator Circuit For The Car
This i-TRIXX circuit can prevent a
whole lot of trouble for those of you who go on holiday in a caravan.
It would be a significant damper on your holiday spirit when you are
ready to leave the camping and discover that you have used your battery
too much and that you are now unable to start the car. This annoyance
can be avoided if you were warned early enough by an illuminated LED
when the charge in the battery threatens to become too low.
A quiet, out of the way, in the countryside camping is what modern people look for to be able to unwind. However, we do not want to be completely deprived of all our creature comforts. We don’t cope very long without electric light or a TV! And in the absence of a mains power outlet the car battery has to function as energy source, with the risk that later on there will be too little left to start the engine. The little circuit presented here gives you an early warning when the battery voltage (and therefore its stored energy) threatens to become too low.
A quiet, out of the way, in the countryside camping is what modern people look for to be able to unwind. However, we do not want to be completely deprived of all our creature comforts. We don’t cope very long without electric light or a TV! And in the absence of a mains power outlet the car battery has to function as energy source, with the risk that later on there will be too little left to start the engine. The little circuit presented here gives you an early warning when the battery voltage (and therefore its stored energy) threatens to become too low.
The setting of T1 and T2 determines whether LED D2 will light up when
the battery voltage drops below a certain level. Junction FET T3 is used
as a current source in order to try to keep the current through the LED
as constant as possible. In this way the indicator remains lit even
when the battery is in a state of very deep discharge (< 4 volt). The
LED is a good low-current type that is still very bright at a very
small current (1 to 2 mA). Voltage divider R1 and R2 has been calculated
such that T1 will start to conduct when the voltage of the battery is
greater than 12 V.
If you think this threshold is too high (or: if you think that you can still start your car with a lower battery voltage), then you can reduce the value of R2 or replace it with a 50-k preset (connected as an adjustable resistor). When T1 conducts, the base current to T2 is interrupted and the collector of T2 will become high through R4. In this state T3 does not conduct and the LED is off. When the battery voltage drops below 12 V, T1 will block and T2 will start to conduct. R5 is now connected to ground via T2 which turns T3 into a current source of about 2 mA that drives the LED.
There is, of course, a transition region during which the current through the LED slowly increases; after all, T1 and T2 do not switch with in?nite gain! In our prototype the LED changed from fully off to fully on at a voltage variation from 12 to 11 V. As a bonus, a partially illuminated LED gives a rough indication as to how much the voltage actually is. Diode D1 prevents the circuit from inadvertently giving up the ghost if the circuit is connected incorrectly to the battery (reverse polarity). In practice, because of variations in the specifications of the transistors, the threshold and the current level through the LED can be different.
Test the circuit thoroughly before using it. If you want a brighter indicator, you can increase the current through the LED by replacing T3 with a BF245B or BF245C. When the LED is off, the current through the circuit is barely 30 µA at a battery voltage of 14.4 V. With the LED is on and at a battery voltage of about 10 V, the current consumption is about 2 mA. Even with an illuminated LED, the circuit is not likely to be the cause of a flat battery. Even a good quality battery will have a self discharge rate which is many times greater than the maximum current consumption of this circuit!
If you think this threshold is too high (or: if you think that you can still start your car with a lower battery voltage), then you can reduce the value of R2 or replace it with a 50-k preset (connected as an adjustable resistor). When T1 conducts, the base current to T2 is interrupted and the collector of T2 will become high through R4. In this state T3 does not conduct and the LED is off. When the battery voltage drops below 12 V, T1 will block and T2 will start to conduct. R5 is now connected to ground via T2 which turns T3 into a current source of about 2 mA that drives the LED.
There is, of course, a transition region during which the current through the LED slowly increases; after all, T1 and T2 do not switch with in?nite gain! In our prototype the LED changed from fully off to fully on at a voltage variation from 12 to 11 V. As a bonus, a partially illuminated LED gives a rough indication as to how much the voltage actually is. Diode D1 prevents the circuit from inadvertently giving up the ghost if the circuit is connected incorrectly to the battery (reverse polarity). In practice, because of variations in the specifications of the transistors, the threshold and the current level through the LED can be different.
Test the circuit thoroughly before using it. If you want a brighter indicator, you can increase the current through the LED by replacing T3 with a BF245B or BF245C. When the LED is off, the current through the circuit is barely 30 µA at a battery voltage of 14.4 V. With the LED is on and at a battery voltage of about 10 V, the current consumption is about 2 mA. Even with an illuminated LED, the circuit is not likely to be the cause of a flat battery. Even a good quality battery will have a self discharge rate which is many times greater than the maximum current consumption of this circuit!
Battery Voltage Indicator
Monitors battery voltage, Three-LED Display
Connecting
this circuit to the battery of your vehicle, you will always know at a
glance the approximate voltage available. An indication of battery
voltage is useful to the motorist for monitoring the battery's capacity
to deliver current, and as a check on the efficiency of the dynamo or
alternator. Threshold voltages of the Leds are set by means of two Zener
Diodes (D6 & D10) plus two further Diodes wired in series (D4, D5
and D8, D9 respectively) adding a step of about 1.3V to the nominal
Zener voltage.
Circuit diagram:
Battery Voltage Indicator Circuit Diagram
Parts:
R1 = 1k
R2 = 100K
R3 = 1k
R4 = 3.3K
R5 = 3.3K
R6 = 1k
R7 = 3.3K
R8 = 3.3K
Q1 = BC547
Q2 = BC547
Q3 = BC557
D1 = Red Led
D2 = Amber Led
D3 = 1N4148
D4 = 1N4148
D5 = 1N4148
D6 = BZX79C10
D7 = Green Led
D8 = 1N4148
D9 = 1N4148
D10 = BZX79C12
Notes:
- Red LED D1 is on when battery voltage is 11.5V or less. This indicates a low battery charge.
- Amber LED D2 is on when battery voltage is comprised in the 11.5 - 13.5V range. This indicates that the battery is good if the motor is off. When motor is running, this indicates no charge from dynamo or alternator.
- Green LED D7 is on when battery voltage is 13.5V or more. This indicates a normal condition when motor is running and dynamo or alternator is charging.
Audio Indicator Using LM741
This circuit can be used to remotely monitor a loudspeaker, alarm, or
audio source for presence of an audio waveform. It can also be directly
connected across loudspeaker terminals used as a peak indicator. If you
need to monitor some audio signal at a location that is either
soundproof are too far away to actually hear the signal then you can use
a circuit similar to this one. A remote indication that the audio
source is active is provided visually, here in the form of a LED.
Referring to the above circuit, the 10k preset is a level control which
should be adjusted so that when the source ( audio signal or alarm ) is
producing the desired amount of noise, the LED lights. The input stage
is an inverting x100 amplifier made with a 741 op-amp.
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