Even though today’s electrical appliances are increasingly often
self-powered, especially the portable ones you carry around when camping
or holidaying in summer, you do still sometimes need a source of 230 V
AC - and while we’re about it, why not at a frequency close to that of
the mains? As long as the power required from such a source remains
relatively low - here we’ve chosen 30 VA - it’s very easy to build an
inverter with simple, cheap components that many electronics hobbyists
may even already have.
Though it is possible to build a more powerful circuit, the complexity
caused by the very heavy currents to be handled on the low-voltage side
leads to circuits that would be out of place in this summer issue. Let’s
not forget, for example, that just to get a meager 1 amp at 230 VAC,
the battery primary side would have to handle more than 20 ADC!. The
circuit diagram of our project is easy to follow. A classic 555 timer
chip, identified as IC1, is configured as an astable multivibrator at a
frequency close to 100 Hz, which can be adjusted accurately by means of
potentiometer P1.
Cheap 12V to 220V Inverter Circuit diagram:
These drive a 230 V to 2 × 9 V center-tapped transformer used ‘backwards’ to produce the 230 V output. The presence of the 230 VAC voltage is indicated by a neon light, while a VDR (voltage dependent resistor) type S10K250 or S07K250 clips off the spikes and surges that may appear at the transistor switching points. The output signal this circuit produces is approximately a square wave; only approximately, since it is somewhat distorted by passing through the transformer. Fortunately, it is suitable for the majority of electrical devices it is capable of supplying, whether they be light bulbs, small motors, or power supplies for electronic devices.
PCB layout:
Parts List :
Resistors R1 = 18k?
R2 = 3k3
R3 = 1k
R4,R5 = 1k?5
R6 = VDR S10K250 (or S07K250)
P1 = 100 k potentiometer
Capacitors
C1 = 330nF
C2 = 1000 µF 25V
Semiconductor
T1,T2 = MJ3001
IC1 = 555
IC2 = 4013
Miscellaneous
LA1 = neon light 230 V
F1 = fuse, 5A
TR1 = mains transformer, 2x9V 40VA (see text)
4 solder pins
Note that, even though the circuit is intended and designed for powering by a car battery, i.e. from 12 V, the transformer is specified with a 9 V primary. But at full power you need to allow for a voltage drop of around 3 V between the collector and emitter of the power transistors. This relatively high saturation voltage is in fact a ‘shortcoming’ common to all devices in Darlington configuration, which actually consists of two transistors in one case. We’re suggesting a PCB design to make it easy to construct this project; as the component overlay shows, the PCB only carries the low-power, low-voltage components.
The Darlington transistors should be fitted onto a finned anodized aluminum heat-sink using the standard insulating accessories of mica washers and shouldered washers, as their collectors are connected to the metal cans and would otherwise be short-circuited. An output power of 30 VA implies a current consumption of the order of 3 A from the 12 V battery at the ‘primary side’. So the wires connecting the collectors of the MJ3001s [1] T1 and T2 to the transformer primary, the emitters of T1 and T2 to the battery negative terminal, and the battery positive terminal to the transformer primary will need to have a minimum cross-sectional area of 2 mm2 so as to minimize voltage drop.
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